I wish I had written this post much sooner, but life had gotten too hectic. Hard to believe that our Italy trip was 3 months ago already! I know my memory of some of the details have dimmed a little, but here is a selection of photos from our days in Cinque Terre. I'll do my best to summon the recall!
After about a week in Italy with visits to Venice and Florence in the books, we were pretty excited to arrive in Cinque Terre. It would be a change of pace to the extreme tourist action of the other two spots. We had seen so many sights, so much art, walked so many kilometres that we were really looking forward to a more chill vibe.
We got off the train and found our way to our rental apartment. We had picked an apartment in La Spezia as it was much more affordable and the pickings were slim having planned this trip so last minute. After lugging our suitcases up 8 flights of stairs (not gonna say it was not painful), we found the apartment to be super cute and comfortable. Actually we had a great experience with all of our apartment rentals and would definitely go this route in the future. La Spezia is a small town and it was an easy walk from home base to the train station. La Spezia is on one end of the train line that connects the 5 villages. Over the years I had seen so many charming images of the 5 lands. It did not disappoint in real life. We hopped off the train and popped up to this view and warm mediterranean air. Ahhh... it was divine!
Soaked in our new environment and caught some late afternoon sun.
Everything is a matter of steps in each of these towns. After exploring a few steps this way and that, we climbed some stairs and turned a corner to find this Pebble Beach. It wasn't exactly pebbles as you can see, but beach goers lounged on them as if this was any other beach. You can see the tunnel that housed the train right above.
The water was pristine and so clear, but still in train travel mode, we were not dressed to to even dip our toes in.
Instead we found a table at a resto with a view of the sunset. We eventually hopped over to the corner table, which had the best unobstructed view. Had to try an Aperol Spritz!
The next day we decided to check out another of the 5 villages, Monterosso Al Mare. This is the best of the 5 towns if you are looking to lounge on the beach. It also seemed to be the village with the most restaurants. We didn't explore inland, which at a glance looked pretty residential or hotel filled, but stayed along the water's edge. We admired the picturesque beach umbrellas and noted that we would have to come back for some relaxing seaside time.
A few friends had told us that you could walk easily from town to town. I remarked to one friend before I left Toronto that I was looking forward to the hike. She had been before and said it was more of stroll. Oh, ok, easy peasy. Without much thought, we climbed up the path that you see on the right side of the photo above. Soon enough, we found ourselves walking up and down paths along the hillside vineyards. Such an amazing view from there. These photos do not do it justice. Being the non-planners we are, and hearing it was an easy stroll, we set off at high noon with little water and no food. If you know me, you will know I don't go anywhere without a full bottle of water, some nuts and some candy. I don't even go 5 minutes down the street for lunch without these items. Not sure what I was thinking on this day. Must not have been thinking! Luckily we were smart enough to bring backpacks and wear running shoes. Minutes into the walk, we were both out of water and hungry.
Spotted this enticing pool early on along our hike. But we kept walking and walking, up and down and winding around the path. There was a checkpoint where you have to buy a pass to access the trails. I believe the fee goes to cover the conservation of the park and trails. There is also a
pass called Cinque Terre Card that covers the train (where you can travel between the 7 stops of the two end locations and the 5 towns) as well as the park pass. Had we known about this, this would have been the smart pass to buy. Gives you the freedom to hop on and off the train and travel freely as well as hike if you wish. Some of the trails were closed for safety and preservation reasons. The terrain along this trail is varied. Some dirt, some uneven stairs, some narrow little ledges. We saw the same faces along our hike. Sometimes one group would stop for photos or a breather and another would over take. One group of 2 retired couples had done this hike before and came well prepared with snacks and plenty of water. We would all remark that an ice cold beer would surely hit the spot. I think we must have been 2 hours into our walk with no end in sight when one of the women offered us a bottle water to share. Saved us! So nice!
We walked and walked and at this point we could see boats near the harbour of the next town. Finally!
Eventually we came up to Vernazza, the next town. S went ahead of me as she was feeling wiped out. She said she would leave it to me to take photos. She just wanted to get to the end! In hindsight she was getting sick and was already feeling the symptoms come on, so her energy levels were low. I think my shoes were infinitely more comfortable as well. I'm sure our state of thirst and hunger made the walk seem that much longer. Spotted this girl at the beginning of the trail with her colourful balloons. At this point, near the end of this trail, she had only had one balloon casualty! Made for a great photo shoot with her boyfriend.
At the end of the hike we popped out in the middle of Vernazza and the noises and proximity of the crowds seem magnified. That's when you realize how lovely and peaceful it is up in the hills. S seemed disappointed that there was not a reception complete with cheering squad to celebrate our feat when we completed the hike! Haha! I think it took us 2.5 hours with many stops for photos. Every angle featured a beautiful view. Our "stroll" turned into a several hour long hike and had we known what we were getting into, we obviously would have been much better prepared. I think it's a great activity for anyone in reasonable health. Just be smarter than us, and pack food and snacks. A nice picnic with wine, bread and cheese would be even better, Also, make sure to bring a hat and sunscreen as you are mostly unprotected from the sun. I still loved the hike and was immediately addicted. On my high, I wanted to power on and hike to the next village! I think the big bad cold that was hitting S had very different ideas.
So, we were much more sensible. Got some food and water in us and had a little rest for a while.
Sometimes it's good to sit and soak up your surroundings. Got a tasty gelato, did some people watching, observed the action and plentiful photo shoots, and caught another beautiful Cinque Terre sunset.
Before leaving Vernazza, we grabbed a bottle of wine for the road, looked back at the lights of Monterosso in the distance and thought about how far we hiked in the blazing midday sun. We both remarked at the unusual tree line before hopping the train to Manarola to have dinner.
We feasted on some delicious seafood and local speciality of the Liguria region,
Trofie con Pesto. A simple pesto has never tasted so good.
So good, we ordered it again on our return to Monterosso for lunch the next day. Ive been trying to find an equally yummy pesto since I have been back home. Somehow not the same!
With our slow start and leisurely lunch, we didn't lay down on the beach until late afternoon. The water was chilly (at least to me) but so clear and unlike the waters I have seen elsewhere, including in the Caribbean or Maldives. There were no fish, no seaweed and not even little air bubbles. Clear as if purified.
As the sun ducked behind the hills, we felt an immediate chill come on. We piled on our jackets and full length clothes and headed to Manarola to try our dinner luck again. Our apartment hostess had suggested a spot called
Nessun Dorma, perched at the highest point and with an incredible view of the harbour and the water.
We were starving and the menu seemed to be all small bites, so we stood along the path with loads of picture takers and oglers and admired the village at golden hour before walking back down to another spot for our last dinner in Cinque Terre. We saw 4 of 5 of the villages but CT was lovely, especially at that time of year. Cinque Terre does seem to exist only for tourists. I'm sure very very few of the those that worked there lived there. But it is still so photogenic and therefore charming. The people were friendly, it was a great change of pace in the middle of our travels and was definitely our fave part of our Italy travels.
I mean look at this!
Last Italy post will cover Rome. Coming up soon!
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